Model aircraft ; power model aircraft

Fixed wing power models
Ok lets start with this one, as it's probably going to be the most popular avenue into model flying.
It's best to start with a medium to medium/large size of model. The reason being that larger planes have greater stability, are much less twitchy in a wind and most importantly are easier to see. I would recommend trainers with a wingspan of at least 60" preferably more.
There is a huge array of models that fit the bill.

The power plant used wants to be reliable with plenty of power and possess a good throttle response .This is especially important when learning, as you have your work cut out keeping the machine in the air as it is. There are plenty of excellent 2 strokes out there, but If you can afford it you should choose a quality 4 stoke motor. Works of art these are. OS, SC, and plenty of other manufacturers make superb 4 stroke units. They have the additional benefit of not being perceived as making much of a noise, when compared to there 2 stroker counterparts.

An example of a model 4stroke engine. This is the SC52 ringed 4stroke. Brilliant performer and sounds the business. Like nearly all model 4stroke engines it has over head valves operated by pushrods which are in front of the cylinder. the camshaft is driven by cross helical gears lubricated by the oil that's mixed with the fuel.

The radio used just needs to be ordinary 4 channel equipment. One or two auxilary channels are fine in addition to the fundemental 4. There's no point in spending out a small fortune on computer radios to start with. Keep it simple at the beginning. There's nothing to choose really between the top manufacturers of radio equipment. Futaba(people pronounce this FU-TAR-BA), Sanwa, Hitec etc, are all excellent and reliable. Get an extra set of crystals though, to avoid problems at your flying site.

Support equipment mustn't be forgotten,(flight box). The stuff you need to put in one of these varies, but you will probably want the following:

12v Lead Acid Battery of 6 Ah or more.
Power panel to divert this power to where it's needed.
Fuel pump if the power panel didn't have one built in.
Glow leads for your plug.
Spare glowplug.
Starter to spin your engine. Beats flicking it over.
Chicken stick if you don't want a starter and want to keep all your fingers.
Fuel.
Fuel feed tubing with in-line filter.
Tools for model and engine. Including glow plug spanner. Prop spanner.
Spare prop
Some Cyano(super glue) and Epoxy.
Don't forget your transmitter(Tx) as well.

If you decide to build your model from a kit, then the best advice is to read the instructions then read the instructions again two more times. Do this while studying the plans before even glancing at your White glue. When you feel some understanding of the build process that awaits you make sure you have all the tools and materials you need. Here's a list of the basics:

Building board. I use a sapele door covered in MDF that I glued on with cheap PVA. The MDF is so I can push in pins. Place the board on something that gives you a comfortable working height.
Modelling knife with spare blades, curved and straight. Scalpels are the business.
Heavier duty knife like a stanley.
Fine, medium, and course glasspaper with sanding block.
Adhesives
- High quality white glue(PVA) I recommend for general construction.
- Epoxy. Both 5 min and a slow cure one.
- Cyano
Modelling pins.
Masking tape. Make sure you have a roll of this handy.
Clamps of various sizes. Grab some clothes pegs while your at it.
Sheet of polythene to cover your plan with. This being your first model, ask a fellow modeller for some old solarfilm backing.

When you got this stuff set up somewhere, start following the instructions carefully step by step. If your unsure of something stop, think and study until it clicks. Or get a modelling mate over to look at it. Your local model shop owner will surely help you also. Keep methodical in your approach and you will end up with an airworthy model.
When the planes built, covered and ready to go, take a moment to double check the balance point. If this is to far back you will have no chance of controlling it. By using a well proven kit this is unlikely to be a problem however, provided the engine used is within the specified range. The controls go the right way don't they?!

So you're going to go fly it now right. Wait a minute, that engine just came out of it's box. It's going to need some running in before the model flys. Important this is, follow the running in instructions that came with your engine or that shiny new plane of yours is going to re-kit itself when the engine quits on you.

TIP Make sure you know the ins and outs of what makes an aeroplane fly, what the different controls do, what causes a snap roll or spin(So you don't do it by accident to begin with) etc. Then hold your transmitter and move the sticks while looking at the responding surface on the aircraft. Imagine in your mind what your actions would have on the plane if it was flying.

TIP Buy a simulator. They rock.

Pre-flight checks at the flying field

Make sure everyone knows what channel your on.
Everything tight and secure? Prop on the right way?! AND TIGHTENED.
As this is new radio in a new model range check it with the help of a mate.
Start the engine and throttle up and down. Respond well does it?
With the engine going at full throttle, point the nose up in the air if it fades or stops then it's too lean, open out the needle a bit. A slight increase in rpm is ok.
Idle your engine and check the controls for smoothness and CORRECT DIRECTION.
Ok, thats about it, get the expert to it take off, trim it and show you how it's done.